LATEX PAINT :
Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) liquefies the oldest paint. Wet paint thoroughlyand cover with plastic to prevent evaporation. Paint will wash off with water after ashort time. Latex paint may be removed from clothing by soaking followed by machinewashing. The results are gratifying. Remember that alcohol is quite flammable. Detergentand water will remove latex before it dries.
OIL PAINT :
Various petroleum distillates are available with names like "OdorlessTurpentine" and ordinary solvents like acetone (fingernail polish remover) will work.These chemicals can be quite harsh and gentler chemicals may be tried first. A light oilsuch as lamp oil or Kerosene will dissolve the paint (also good on grease and tar)allowing removal with ordinary detergent. Naphtha (lighter fluid) is gentle on mostfinishes and may prove useful as might various alcohols. Lacquer thinner is a combinationof petroleum distillates, alcohol, toluene, methyl ethyl ketone, and butyl acetate whichis enough to soften most finishes, waxes, or greases but damage to the underlying surfaceshould be considered .
ENAMEL :
Lacquer thinner, acetone, and various petroleum based products work well. Paintstrippers are available which contain highly volatile and extremely effective solvents.The strippers typically contain additional chemicals which form a vapor barrier to slowthe evaporation of the volatile solvents. Follow the directions quite closely for maximumeffectiveness.
OTHER FINISHES :
Try various alcohols and other solvents which do not hurt the underlying surface.Isopropyl alcohol was found to dissolve the paint on clear plastic boxes without hurtingthe plastic finish for example. Epoxy paints and other finishes may prove quite resistantto solvents or the underlying surface may not tolerate the harsh solvents and strippers.In such instances it may be necessary to consider mechanical removal with sandpaper, steelwool, wire brush, or scraper. Polishing compounds may be used to restore the surfacefinish with surprisingly good results. Start with a coarse grade of compound on apolishing wheel and switch to finer grades washing the wheel between steps. Even clearplastic may be restored to complete transparency although some experience may be necessary: most novices overheat the plastic. Try using water to cool the surface.
TAPE AND ADHESIVE :
Naphtha (Lighter Fluid) is the best choice for most adhesives used on tapes since itwill not harm most finishes. If possible, position the tape or label vertically and dripin a bead of naphtha between the tape and surface. As the tape is pulled away the bead ofliquid will drop down onto the newly exposed adhesive. Squirt in a little more naphtha asneeded - the tape or label will come off in one piece! Even old masking tape may beremoved with a little patience. Many tape adhesives are water based and will soften whensoaked. Use warm water and perhaps a little detergent.
 | Phil Ngai <pngai@adobe.com> recommends warming the tape with a lamp or hairdryer. The heat softens the adhesive but take care not to damage the item with excessive heat. This works better than I expected and is now my first thing to try! |
| "Hinermad" posted this suggestion to the hobby discussion: "I saw the article on removing paint and adhesives - definitely a keeper! But I'd like to suggest an addition: I've found that light mineral oil (3-In-1 brand household oil, or even baby oil) is good for removing the greasy goo that's left behind by various adhesive labels like price stickers or diskette labels. It's kind to most surfaces, and baby oil smells a lot prettier than Goo-Gone(TM)." |
| Tom Bruhns suggests, "On the subject of adhesive removal, a good thing to know about is...peanut butter! Seriously. It's 'oil-based,' non-toxic (to most people), doesn't smell bad (to most of us, I think). The ground peanuts are very mildly abrasive, and flooded with warm water and perhaps a bit of detergent, it emulsifies easily so it's easy to wash away. It's also commonly available in many households. If you think I'm kidding about its effectiveness, just try it sometime on some tape residue or the like. I was once visiting friends who have horses, and one of the horses had been rubbing up against a pine tree which was oozing sap. She was distressed that she would have to cut the horse's mane off to get rid of the matted, sticky mess. I suggested peanut butter, and a few minutes later, the horse's mane was at least manageable, if not completely cleaned, and she looked at me in amazement..." |
EPOXY :
Epoxies resist almost everything but epoxy strippers are available from industrialsuppliers. These organic acids are caustic and must be used with great care. Spot removalof epoxy may be accomplished by chipping or using the tip of a soldering iron. Be preparedfor a bad smell. Someone suggested paint stripper but I have not tried it.
SILICONE RUBBER :
Most silicone rubbers may be removed by applying ethyl alcohol to the interface. Letthe interface soak under the alcohol, if possible. After a few minutes the rubber may bepulled off. Make sure the alcohol has dried before applying new rubber.
INSTANT GLUE :
Those "crazy" or "super" adhesives (cyanoacrylate ester) that bondinstantly may be released with a special debonding agent usually available at hobbystores.
Reader Joy Richards suggests, " Cyanoacrylate glue (crazy glue) can becleaned up (mostly) with acetone. That's all those special 'debondingagents' are in most cases. And it's cheapest by the large bottle in thebeauty supply store (like Sally's Beauty Supply) or perhaps hardware stores.There will be a layer that's bonded to the surface of whatever was 'glued', butthe glue in the middle can be dissolved (like when moi glues her fingerstogether. I can still feel a glued surface, which will grow out in a dayor two, but the fingers are no longer attached to each other.)"
DOUBLE-SIDED FOAM TAPE :
You will learn to hate the inventor of this tape when you endeavor to remove it. Sinceit is waterproof, the trick is to get the naptha to the adhesive. Not recommended for theshort of temper. Hot air will usually help, but the tape acts like a thermal insulator,too!
RUSTYNUTS AND BOLTS
Joy Richards suggests, "Soak the rusty part in Coca-Cola or Dr. Pepperovernight. If the part is not removable and fixed, build a small damaround the part and fill it with the liquid so it'll soak overnight."
I wonder if carbonated water would work or a mild acid solution. (Maybe Zud,or similar product containing oxalic acid.) I have good luck with penetratingoil and a little heat.
